Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.
The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Lena Hoffmann is a seasoned journalist with a passion for uncovering stories that matter, specializing in German current affairs and digital media trends.
